FAQ

Can I book a private event?

Yes! We host events both large and small. Our event room is perfect for 2-8 people or if you have a large party our main gaming area can be rented that seats up to 26. We also host an outdoor event space on our back patio! You can learn more about event space reservation and pricing here.

How long does it take to get my order?

Shipping times will vary based on the product type and your location. We make custom products by hand and we work hard to fulfill every order in a timely manner. Prompt shipping times can be affected by the weather, communication and clarification of order requests, as well as expedited shipping options at check-out.

Ready to ship products are packaged and mailed within 2 business days Monday – Friday with the exception of holidays. This includes; Sealed TCG, board games, tabletop gaming accessories, and listed dice sets.

Made to order products normally have a lead time of 1-2 weeks before shipping. After the product is created it is shipped as soon as it has cleared our strict quality standards! This includes; Dice molds, inserts, potions, and other handmade products that are available for direct purchase, not custom orders.

Custom orders or commissions have on average a lead time of 2-4 weeks and are directly based on the requirements of the order. Many factors such as quantity, level of complexity, design review and approval can influence the production and shipping times. Every custom order is treated with care and communication is key in making sure we can bring your vision to reality! This includes; Dice masters, custom molds, custom dice, printing services, custom accessories and other special requests.

What do I need to make my own dice?

Creating your very own math rocks is an AWESOME hobby and you can get started with just a few simple crafting supplies! Like any hobby there is a large amount of tools and tricks that can help you cast dice faster, with less blemishes, or with exotic techniques. We recommend starting small and casting a few d20s and deciding what kind of dice you want to make before investing into custom fonts, logos, or special tools.

Start casting with just the basics:

A small silicone mold of a single / pair of d20s, d6, or other favorite die type!
Mica powders; These give your dice colors and sparkle!
Slow cure thin art resin, the lower the viscosity the better! A low viscosity lets air escape easier to reduce bubbles on edges and numbers.
Small mixing cups (3 oz or smaller is great!) and craft sticks formesuring and mixing your resin.
Polishing papers for cleaning up the mold line or ”flashing” that forms between the base and cap of your dice mold.
Miniature ink or high pigmented acrylic ink and a 00 paint brush for coloring the dice numbers

You can find all of this in our beginner’s dice making kit here!

What are dice blank molds for?

Blank dice molds are the perfect solution for troublesome casting styles that would cause a dice set to fail or contain large voids that are hard to fill or otherwise repair.

Common uses for blanks include;

Petri or ink sink designs.
Flowers and other porous items that trap air.
Heavy items that might sit on a face, like rocks or gemstones.
Artistic styles such as painting or adding stickers/nail decals.
Custom carving of blanks to make organic shapes or designs.

How long does a dice mold last before it needs replaced?

Due to the nature of resin casting silicone molds are a consumable product. As the silicone experiences multiple rapid heating and cooling cycles from the exothermic reaction of resin it stresses the mold. Resin has a small shrinkage rate as it cures, causing pinching putting additional stress on small details such as numbers and fine line work of some logos. Even with mindful care small tears will form on the seams or corners over time but this should not impact your casting as silicone is self-sealing.

To extend the life of your mold follow these care tips:

Proper demolding of your cast dice is extremely important to maintain the life of your mold! We recommend watching our short tutorial video on the correct method here.
Avoid using any tools to pry or pop out the dice, proper demolding should cause the dice to freely fall out with extremely little force.
Clean and remove as much flashing as you can before demolding. This helps prevent sharp resin flashing from scratching the mold or getting into the empty dice spaces while demolding.
Demold during your resins directions for “demold” or “dry to touch” time. The dice will be slightly soft and malleable but much less likely to scratch the silicone or cause tearing of numbers/logos.

Even the best and most loved molds have to retire at some point. Our current pull record goes to @DualityDice with one of their custom molds making it to 70+ pulls! The average life of a mold is about 25+ pulls before major tear-out or ripping. Normally this results in a small bump on the 1 face edge that can be sanded away or snipped, extending the life and usefulness of the mold. Small tears tend to form in 10-15 pulls, but should not affect the overall dice castings. Fast cure or hotter resin types such as urethane resin will accelerate this wearout.

I’m getting bubbles in my dice, do I need a pressure pot?

Honest answer: Yes. There are a number of steps you can take to REDUCE bubbles but without a proper resin casting pressure pot you will always have bubbles on the edges and numbers of your dice to some amount. Even the use of a vacuum pump to remove air bubbles is not perfect because any pouring, mixing or other disturbance will re-introduce air into your resin.

Some great tips for casting without a pressure pot;

Warm the resin by resting the cups in a warm water bath. Be careful to not mix water into the resin!
Mix slowly and in a smooth upward motion.
Add slowly and mix a little at a time.
Pour above the mold using a mixing stick to direct the resin into the mold from the base of the dice in the mold, a slow even stream will reduce the chance of bubbles.
Dab a small amount of resin on the numbers of the cap to avoid air getting trapped in the top faces.
Use a lighter or heat gun to pop surface bubbles before capping, allowing 10 minutes between treatments for up to 2 hours before placing the cap with long cure 45 min+ resins.
Roll the cap on slowly with light pressure from one die to the next.

My resin didn’t cure, how do I clean my mold?

If you have uncured resin in your mold all it is not lost! Be sure to wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when working with uncured resin. Your mold just needs a bit of TLC to get you back to casting awesome dice.

Put your mold in an airtight & watertight disposable plastic bag, zip seal is best. This will keep uncured resin from getting on any additional surfaces.
Place it in your freezer.
As the resin cools, it will thicken to an extra thick honey like consistency.
Use gloves to pull your mold out of the bag and demold as much of your resin as possible.
Use isopropyl alcohol or acetone with q-tips or cotton balls to clean the mold until all of the uncured resin is removed. Remember to keep these away from pets and others!
Do a final clean of the mold with warm water and soap, rinse fully and allow to air dry.

I’m getting bubbles in my dice, do I need a pressure pot?

Some great tips for casting without a pressure pot;

Warm the resin by resting the cups in a warm water bath. Be careful to not mix water into the resin!
Mix slowly and in a smooth upward motion.
Add slowly and mix a little at a time.
Pour above the mold using a mixing stick to direct the resin into the mold from the base of the dice in the mold, a slow even stream will reduce the chance of bubbles.
Dab a small amount of resin on the numbers of the cap to avoid air getting trapped in the top faces.
Use a lighter or heat gun to pop surface bubbles before capping, allowing 10 minutes between treatments for up to 2 hours before placing the cap with long cure 45 min+ resins.
Roll the cap on slowly with light pressure from one die to the next.